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萨克岛，一座位于英吉利海峡的小岛，美丽地如同胜境，400多年来几乎与外界隔绝。令人诧异的是，目前岛上仍在推行封建制度，民主之风难以吹进。
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这座小岛距离英国海岸80公里，在海中延伸约3英里，由陡峭的花岗岩峭壁所环绕。牧场上野花遍地，村舍整洁，优雅的格恩西奶牛悠闲散步。19世纪时，诗人阿尔杰农-斯威伯恩这样描述此地，“微妙而甜蜜，波浪所环绕的福地”。
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. R W1 i; g7 I1 r 但是，这座小岛却是欧洲最后的一块封建领地，岛上的几百名居民，至今仍臣服于一个封建领主的统治。而在这名领主之下，又有40名从仆，作为统治该岛的小领主。人在德国 社区3 B1 S' g! y8 c/ J
9 r( c! Z% {0 A; C9 c 如同英吉利海峡中的许多小岛一样，萨克岛原则上讲并不属于英国的一部分，实际上，它哪也不属于。自从威廉入主英国以来，萨克就保持了英国附属国的地位，享有高度的自治，仅在外交上服从英国管理。
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% P4 a3 j( S+ H8 t* g m& S人在德国 社区 在岛上，人们骑自行车、乘坐马车或穿着传统的大靴子徒步走动，必要时才会动用岛上仅有的几部拖拉机。很久以前，负责治理此地的领主为了抵御海盗入侵，招募了40名火枪手，并授予他们封地。如今，岛上享有土地所有权的40名地主，就是当年40名火枪手的后裔或继承人。- \# I9 \" B9 o8 f# Z3 N
i1 C+ s! L' [2 |- e& Q# p 迈克尔-博蒙特是现任领主，现年79岁，曾经是一名航空工程师，他在1972年祖母去世后，继承了领主地位。他的家族自1852年开始统治该岛。传统上讲，迈克尔-博蒙特是岛上惟一有权养殖鸽子和母狗的人。臣民如果要上诉，需单膝跪地，向博蒙特陈情。政府、法官、治安官及文员的任命，都由领主指定。3 q/ m2 l: ]" t, b
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岛上居民的收入主要来自于每年夏季上岛游玩的游客。岛上多数官员没有工资，纯属自愿工作，只有治安官能够领取到工资。现任的治安官曾经有一段英勇抗击“侵略”的经历。1991年，一名失业的法国人，穿着一身破旧军装，携带一支来复枪和250发弹药登陆，号称要占领该岛，发动了“一个人的侵略”。正当“侵略者”在大街上耀武扬威时，治安官走到“侵略者”跟前，问，“你的这把枪很有意思，请问怎么使用呢？”。于是这名法国佬开始摆弄起枪来作示范，这时埋伏已久的消防队员一拥而上，将“侵略者”拿下。
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" ~/ R, g, V) _' ~7 h人在德国 社区 自从16世纪女王伊丽莎白一世宣布该岛为一位贵族的采邑后，萨克岛在442年间就基本没有什么变化。但是21世纪的到来，给萨克岛带来很大的冲击。萨克岛是《欧洲人权公约》的成员，理应遵守公约的规定，不能再保留封建贵族，也不能再由家族嫡长子世袭议员资格，也不能再仅仅因为领主个人喜好，拒绝推行离婚法。人在德国 社区! _" g9 Q9 ^ A
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尽管政治权力集中在领主和他的40名封臣手中，但是到目前为止，岛上多数居民都安于现状，无意取消这样的封建制度。但是萨克岛的田园风光和安静氛围吸引了不少外来者前来，并购买岛上的土地。这些外来户希望领主至少能对21世纪的习俗做出一点让步，如同英吉利海峡其他小岛一样，进行民主改革。rs238848.rs.hosteurope.de. T, X9 t* a# x, O7 g
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英国负责执行欧洲人权标准的当局给萨克岛两个选择：建立民选政府，否则放弃部分自治权。大领主迈克尔-博蒙特已经表示愿意顺从历史趋势，并放弃世袭领主地位，迈克尔-博蒙特已经不再对臣民的财产征收什一税，也不再强制臣民每年进奉母鸡；但是他仍然征收土地买卖税，如果封臣出售土地，必需向他缴纳三分之一的交易金额作为税金，而且土地的购买者也必需忠于女王陛下。但是改革却遭到了封臣们的反对。
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去年秋天，萨克岛进行了全民投票，决定是否要建立普选议会。萨克岛的40名小领主对此表示不满，他们要求停止选举，并开展进一步研究，以明确萨克岛是否真的需要民主制度。迈克尔-博蒙特称，这些小领主会为了他们的特权，“战斗至最后一滴血”。$ m* F7 F: [% i- D8 i% x
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岛上的一些居民也反对废除封建制度，皮埃尔的家族已经在岛上生活了几百年。她说，“不要忘了，我们现行的制度已经完美运行了450年了，为什么要改变呢。别人说要‘进步’，我们就要‘进步’，别人说多建房能提供更多工作机会，我们就要多建房。把萨克岛改变成和世界和其他地方一模一样，将是一个悲剧。行走在小路上的简易马车，游荡在牧场上的牛群，还有直接来自农场的黄油和奶酪，才是萨克岛之所以为萨克岛的关键所在。”
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Tiny island is a feudal time warp" Q$ L' N) Y/ h0 |' N9 b8 k" ^
Sark, in the English Channel, is under pressure to conform to Europe's rules
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Sark, Channel Islands — HERE, on an island that might be called Camelot, the winds of democracy have blown in like the waft from a landfill.
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' p+ [% r" r( z1 B v L$ R# _" z6 g* EThis 3-mile-long stretch of granite crags, flowered meadows, neat cottages and well-behaved Guernsey cows 80 miles off Britain's coast in the English Channel is the last feudal outpost in Europe. Algernon Swinburne, the 19th century poet, called it a "small, sweet world of wave-encompassed wonder."
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" q1 l1 j9 C( o# l( O! A0 O- @Sark has remained pretty much the same for 442 years, since Queen Elizabeth I declared it a noble fiefdom. Transport is by bicycle, horse-and-carriage or Wellington boots. When absolutely necessary, one may resort to one of the island's few tractors. But the neighbors, never frugal with opinions, tend to look up from their gardens and make case-by-case assessments of what constitutes necessity.2 J; `# _- C: ~- G7 @; o w
, h/ J( X, l+ U' ZLandownership is divided among 40 "tenants." They are the descendants or successors of the 40 men with muskets recruited by the original seigneur, the ruling lord commissioned to defend the isle against pirates and buccaneers. Government administration is by fiat, with the island administrator, judge, constable and clerk appointed by the current seigneur, a 79-year-old former aeronautical engineer whose family has governed Sark since 1852." f/ K! C# F. d: i7 N% E
+ L$ v7 T' a" u, u人在德国 社区But that was all in place long before the 21st century arrived on the gut-churning, twice-a-day ferry from Guernsey; before it was decreed that, in a modern Europe whose members are signatories to the European Convention on Human Rights, it's just not on to have feudal lords, and not on to have seats in the island's parliament bequeathed across generations to eldest sons, and not on to refuse to adopt divorce laws because you don't like them.5 C9 d/ Z; m5 s9 W
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Sark, like the rest of the islands that squat in the English Channel, is technically not part of Britain, or anywhere else. As a dependency of the sovereign of England on and off since the days of William the Conqueror, Sark adopts its own tax residency, landownership and environmental standards.
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But as a dependency, it looks to Britain for its defense and international diplomacy, and to the nearby island of Guernsey for criminal laws. (The bigger island centuries ago was granted Sark as part of its bailiwick, or court bailiff's jurisdiction.) That means that when Britain agreed to respect human rights, so, by extension, did Sark.
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Until now, no one has been particularly inclined to get rid of the feudal governing system that placed political power in the hands of the seigneur and a parliament made up of his 40 vassals and, more recently, 12 elected deputies.
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But as outsiders looking for a slice of the island's tranquillity and rural grace have begun to buy up the 40 land allotments, some of the newcomers have demanded at least a nod to the conventions of the 21st century, much as has happened on Guernsey and the nearby island of Jersey. For some, the idea of having to apply to the seigneur for permission to sell land — and pay him one-thirteenth of the sales price — is too charmingly medieval for comfort.- X0 F" m6 H+ g6 ]
; }8 {! m9 \, c人在德国 社区BRITISH authorities, responsible for administering European human rights standards, have given Sark a choice: Either create an elected parliament of a form chosen by the majority of the island's 600 or so residents, or give up some sovereignty.
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"They said the legislature wasn't human-rights-compliant…. About 10 years ago, the seigneurs in Guernsey had to give up giving permission [to sell land] and collecting money, and I realized from that date that the same thing was going to happen in Sark, that it was all inevitable," said Michael Beaumont, the seigneur, who has tended to rule Sark the only way this island of eccentrics could be ruled: by dry wit, gentle prodding and quiet diplomacy.
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A referendum last fall was supposed to usher in an elected parliament. But the last few weeks it has become clear that Sark's 40 landlords, who would for the first time have to stand for election, aren't giving in without a fight.8 c F8 {! u0 k0 n7 z
0 z4 F" m# g5 Y# _, MIn January, the parliament, known as Chief Pleas, voted to suspend the referendum and study further whether Sark truly wants to go down the democratic road.
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"We are now up to our seventh year in discussing a new constitution," said Beaumont, who has made it clear he is prepared to forgo his inherited privilege and defer to progress. "But when you've got a house with a vast majority all made up of [landowners], they're not going to give up their seats, at least not willingly. They're going to fight to the last drop of blood, as far as I can see."
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( n. }( E- c/ F" o& p% O% aAs early as the 13th century, Sark was a haven for monks and pirates, the treacherous underwater rocks along its coasts serving as weapons against unsuspecting ships. That ended in 1565, when Queen Elizabeth I granted the island as a fief to Helier de Carteret on the condition he ensure the island's safety by retaining 40 armed men.
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7 j" B! Y* S) R( H: ^4 t- X4 T' [人在德国 社区Beaumont became seigneur in 1974 on the death of his grandmother, Sibyl Hathaway, dame of Sark, who held the island's population together during Nazi occupation (imperiously requiring the German officers to sign in as visitors at the elegant manor house)./ `7 D% l. u. p3 s
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Over the years, the island had on its own cast away some of the trappings of feudalism.
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Beaumont no longer collects an annual tithe on residents' wealth; annual payment of a live chicken to the seigneur also is no longer mandatory; and taxes are a fraction of what they are in Britain, though Beaumont continues to take his treizieme, one-thirteenth of the sales price, whenever one of the original 40 tenements is sold. None can be subdivided or conveyed without his concurrence, and all must be sold to a loyal subject of the queen.
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6 [1 g8 H9 S7 P% Z- P" ^3 L人在德国 社区THE seigneur's consent is no longer required for marriage (and no one can remember when he had the right to review the bride on her wedding night). Divorce is still not written into Sark's code, but the island has agreed to accept those granted elsewhere. The law decreeing that tenements must be handed down to the eldest son was changed in 1999 to allow daughters to inherit as well.rs238848.rs.hosteurope.de' a9 `/ N- Y7 M
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Still, by tradition and law, Beaumont is the only Sark resident permitted to keep pigeons or an unspayed bitch. And residents with a complaint can still fall on one knee and invoke the Clameur de Haro, a Norman custom under which a person can obtain immediate cessation of any action he considers to be an infringement of his rights.
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"It usually involves boundary disputes. Say someone is knocking your trees down," explained Jeremy Bateman, the deputy seneschal, or island administrator.
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"You can fall on your knees and invoke the Clameur de Haro. You say: 'Haro, haro haro! A mon aide, mon prince, on me fait tort!' [Help me, my prince, someone does me wrong!] And when that's done, everything stops. All work must be stopped until there's a hearing of the court.5 v B0 @1 W/ `6 h" Q2 y1 ^- L4 L5 G( a5 q
l2 j" K9 E; Q$ A, N0 S"It is used occasionally," Bateman said. "I think the last time it was three years ago. A wall was being built on a boundary, and it was invoked. It's quite effective.": Y5 x0 j/ `% t
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Sark's residents — natives whose families have inhabited the island for generations, mainland Brits looking for a quieter life, and wealthy, often-secretive refugees appreciative of the island's generous tax laws — for the most part rent their homes on short- and long-term leases granted by the tenants. By law, newcomers can live only in homes built before 1976, a regulation intended to allow the construction of new homes for the children of islanders but hold the new arrivals largely at bay.rs238848.rs.hosteurope.de( D5 ~5 S1 _8 Z/ a
- J' C) @6 d* b0 ]* G3 w3 GResidents survive mainly on the revenue from the thousands of tourists who descend on the island each summer once the terrifying winter gales subside.
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With next to no civil service, Sark is governed by volunteers. The seigneur's chief gardener is also the head of the constitutional review committee. Some people fish during the week and drive a carriage on weekends. Members of Chief Pleas oversee the schools, the sewage system, trash pickup, harbors, fishing, agriculture and health care.
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"You'll see somebody that's working behind the counter in the food shops, and when you pop into the pub that evening they'll be behind the bar. That's how people support each other and make a living," said Geoff Benfield, a former automotive engineer from the mainland who opened a combination bed-and-breakfast and rocking horse carving studio on Sark.; a$ A, ^, Y. ]1 q
, m# y9 _ k$ L' s3 T9 jrs238848.rs.hosteurope.deThe constable is one of the few who gets a salary. He earned it in 1991, when an unemployed French nuclear physicist, dressed in military fatigues and armed with an automatic rifle and 250 rounds of ammunition, launched a one-man invasion.
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"He put these notices up, they were all in French, of course, saying he was going to take over the island," Beaumont recalled.6 }& h& ]) d- Y# N% [5 ^4 J+ S4 o" w" z4 {
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"Everyone took it as a joke, of course, until the next day somebody saw him walking around with a rifle. Fortunately, the constable just had a lot of plain common sense. He walked up to the chap and said, 'That's an interesting rifle you've got there.' And he asked, 'How does it work?'' I9 m$ S+ `* @ t/ @9 ?
2 z+ Z" Q! u# q& Y# y"So the chap started to show him, and the rest of the fire brigade pounced on him."人在德国 社区+ W2 m4 G6 s/ q8 V* x
+ v$ v( }* r, Y; i' v* bMANY residents probably would have been content to leave Sark as it was for another 400 years. That wasn't going to happen after billionaire twin brothers Sir David Barclay and Sir Frederick Barclay bought the island of Brecqhou next door in 1993. The island falls under Sark's jurisdiction.
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" q3 C4 {0 j* ]* U5 j' M2 |: q% VThe reclusive Barclays, owners of the Telegraph media empire and the Ritz Hotel, proceeded to build an enormous castle, complete with medieval-style turrets.
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% d S* l# V1 R$ j- W人在德国 社区Their distaste for Sark's feudal system apparently began when they were informed that Beaumont was due his treizieme on the purchase of the island — a sum of $254,000.rs238848.rs.hosteurope.de/ Q, y. v+ d3 V J8 c1 O- G
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The Barclay brothers weren't successful in challenging Sark's jurisdiction over Brecqhou, but they did succeed in forcing scrutiny of the island's compliance with the human rights convention.
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: k- ~9 B6 a, W/ q3 w9 C6 eIn pushing the island to democratize, officials in London have warned that failure to modernize on Sark's own terms could result in Sark losing some of its independence and being governed more directly by the larger island of Guernsey, an option no one here seems to want.
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Moreover, many residents have become impatient with the domination of the landowners in decision making.9 D5 [( N6 g9 |9 f4 p* c' q
6 |. |9 K6 n; }5 w% S2 I: u"The situation we have at the moment is we have about 40 people — perhaps 27 or 28 of them turn up for meetings — who have a seat in government simply because they own land," said Jan Guy, a former head teacher at the island's school who has lived here 19 years.
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"Now, in some cases, their family has owned that land for many years, and several generations. But in many cases, that land has been bought quite recently. So if you came over and you bought a nice tenement, the next meeting of government, you'd be there, governing for the people of Sark. I ask you, do you think that's right?"$ H( I& }8 o+ ] Q# u- }7 y
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But other long-term residents fear that easing the feudal landowners out of the government will be the beginning of the end.人在德国 社区# l& G4 r9 L0 x3 _3 ^' w* _* B
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"We must remember, it's worked wonderfully for 450 years. Unfortunately, it's a lot of the outsiders who come to the island because they love it, and lo and behold they want to change things once they get here," said Elizabeth Perree, whose family, descendants of original tenants on the island, operates an inn and small farm.rs238848.rs.hosteurope.de5 {2 j; @4 N" |+ q0 m( L$ D
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"It still has the lovely simplicity of horses and carriages trundling along the roads. Cattle grazing and having lovely butter and cream straight from the farms — all these little things are what make Sark what it is," she said.rs238848.rs.hosteurope.de7 L- F& x1 S5 K% o. F# }
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"It'll be a tragedy if it starts to get built up and become like anywhere else in the world," Perree said. "People say, 'progress,' we should do this, we should do that. Someone at the moment is suggesting that we should have more building because that would give more work to people.
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"But in a funny way, I feel it's special because it has stayed as it was. It's the last feudal state in the Western world, for goodness' sake.", X. z# F" t6 {6 T! W
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Michael Beaumont, the seigneur, is willing to defer to progress but says the landowners aren’t. He still collects one-thirteenth of the sales price of any of the 40 tenements, but he no longer takes a tithe of residents’ wealth, and they don’t have to give him a live chicken every year.8 o& U7 }1 G" {2 p6 F+ a1 ^
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[ 本帖最后由 日月光 于 2007-3-9 16:12 编辑 ] |
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发表于 2007-3-9 14:17
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