[国际新闻] 利比亚中餐馆不畏战乱照送外卖

在战乱不停的中东地区，人们有的要打仗，有的要逃难，不管怎么样，总是得吃饭，而中餐馆的老板，不畏战火，坚持开业，送外卖的使命必达，蔚为奇观。

　　从伊拉克首都巴格达，阿富汗的喀布尔，乃至利比亚的首都「的黎波里」，战乱当中，都有中餐馆坚持继续营业，甚至不惜冒着生命危险送外卖。有老板说，不管时局如何，饭还是得吃的，大家都不敢开店的时候，如果有人开店，人们就得向他们买饭，这就是赚钱的好机会。
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　　一名在利比亚开餐馆的中国老板表示，没想到利比亚的战事，一打就是这么久，有的时候也会想逃命算了，但就是舍不得放弃事业。而他21岁的儿子也是孝顺，帮着爸爸冒险外送饭盒，勉强撑一口饭吃。
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Dai Sonxian’s family invested hundreds of thousands of dollars in a new seaside location a month before the Libyan crisis began.

In Tripoli, Chinese takeout still on the menu0 l! I( Y! a. A9 a* r% N

TRIPOLI, Libya — Even with bombs raining down on Tripoli and gunfire crackling throughout the night, every time the phone rings at the al-Maida Chinese restaurant, the Dai family springs into action.0 L; K0 i- z- ^( f

The thousands-strong Chinese labor force that helped make the family one of the most successful restaurateurs in this battered capital left the country soon after an uprising plunged Libya into chaos in February.人在德国社区; b0 M! b& C2 u5 Z

Gone, too, are most of the foreign diplomats who kept the eatery on speed dial.人在德国社区: n; v0 p$ D/ }' i* r! ^7 h* t( X. h

But having invested hundreds of thousands of dollars in a new seaside location for the restaurant a month before the crisis began, the Dais are not yet willing to become casualties of Libya’s civil war.

“It would be such a loss of our money and a big waste,” Dai Sonxian, the family matriarch and restaurant manager, said on a recent evening, standing by the register near a framed photo of a smiling Moammar Gaddafi.

So her 21-year-old son Alex, the delivery guy, often darts out at night to hail a cab in this checkpoint-choked city, carrying containers of steaming fried rice, cashew chicken and spring rolls.# u8 Y3 o/ c1 S; A& H8 `" J
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“Sometimes when I go out, I hear booms,” he said.6 a( I7 k8 K$ {/ Y) ?8 x

The availability of Chinese takeout — which is often darn good — has become a hallmark of modern war zones.
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Baghdad’s Chinese restaurant at the al-Mansour Hotel kept the stove on during the worst of days, feeding the Chinese diplomats who operated out of the oft-attacked establishment. Another Chinese restaurant, in the Iraqi capital’s Green Zone, became part of Baghdad lore, with a stream of burly contractors timidly walking out of its mysterious backrooms.# P) ?, b* p# ^$ R7 j9 T

In Kabul, Golden Key Seafood Restaurant is a favorite Chinese joint among expats in landlocked Afghanistan, and one of the establishments that meets the security requirements that make them accessible to employees of certain non-governmental organizations.
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While many expat-run businesses board up when war breaks out, Chinese entrepreneurs have come to see them as lands of opportunity.3 H; Y' l, w9 b5 _- @

“They have their own way of managing and dealing with the challenges,” said Wang Tuguo, a Chinese journalist on assignment in Tripoli who has patronized al-Maida and Golden Key. “If you’re the only one, it’s big business.”

His verdict on the Dais’ southern Chinese cuisine: “Delicious,” he said. “Better than some restaurants in China.”5 l1 K, d9 O2 I
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The Dais moved to Tripoli in 2004 from their native Zhejiang province on China’s eastern coast with a dream of opening a clothing store.2 J* V) t  ~( h$ b6 n0 W1 M! L

Dai Sonxian soon discovered that Libyan women were far larger than the women she dressed in China. So she decided the family would instead profit by feeding them.

The family opened a small restaurant that soon became a sensation, she said. Because Muslims are not supposed to eat pork — a staple of Chinese cuisine — they offered a wide selection of lamb, chicken, fish and tofu dishes.
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They use Chinese ingredients that are shipped in bulk twice a year.0 f* w' j6 \+ ?9 ~4 h

The restaurant once served Gaddafi’s son Saif al-Islam, she said proudly. As al-Maida’s reputation grew, the original restaurant became too small.

“There were not enough places for people to sit,” the 55-year-old said, speaking in Mandarin.
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In January, the Dais moved the restaurant to a large two-story house that faces the Mediterranean. The ground floor has ornate ceilings with Islamic calligraphy and is decorated with red lanterns. The Dais live in the upstairs bedrooms.

When Libyans rose up against Gaddafi in February, Dai Sonxian figured that the upheaval would end within weeks.

“In Egypt, everything was over in a month or two,” she said. “I never thought Libyans would be fighting for so long.”

Business is abysmal now, she said. The other three Chinese restaurants in the city closed this spring after their owners went home.

“We are a little scared,” she said. “We know that at any time, the bombs can come crashing down — bang, bang, bang.”1 S, H6 W3 \* {7 ^; a( [; W2 Z) R

But Dai Sonxian said she couldn’t stomach the thought of giving up on the family’s investment.

“I would lose everything,” she said. “So I’m gritting my teeth and sticking it out.”
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利比亚黎波里——每当al-Maida中餐馆的电话铃响起，戴家便动如脱兔，哪管外面枪林弹雨。

自二月份利比亚陷入战乱以来，曾经为黎波里这家最火饭馆捧场的数千名中国劳工相继离开。3 n* [* Y+ B/ e0 h' z9 [
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同时撤离的还有众多将饭馆号码存在手机里的各国外交官。6 R2 k6 [/ g3 P! u! V

但对于在战前一个月刚刚投资几十万美元在海边开设新店的戴家来讲，他们还不想成为战争的牺牲品。6 ]" R& \7 S+ |, n' x) e; l

戴家掌门戴母最近说道：（如何我们也逃避兵祸的话）就太糟蹋钱了。她值守在收银台前，墙上还挂有卡大佐微笑的照片。
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戴母21岁的儿子、送外卖的Alex，经常得在夜里冲到关卡重重的大街上拦出租，怀揣着一盒盒热腾腾的炒饭、宫保鸡丁和春卷。

Alex讲：有时我出门能听到爆炸声。$ m6 H0 Z/ s, K

中餐外卖的持续供应——味道还真TM好——成为现代战场的一大特色。" W. Z6 U/ {/ ^

即使在最艰难的日子里，巴格达al-Mansour酒店里的中餐馆也坚持不打烊，一直给处于险境中的中国外交官供餐。另一家开设在绿区的中餐馆俨然成为巴格达的传奇，肥头大耳的承包商从神秘包厢里鬼鬼祟祟地鱼贯而出。8 F/ _7 ~& V0 H' o. z. X

在阿富汗喀布尔，金钥匙海鲜馆是这个内陆国家老外圈子中的最佳去处，由于它符合安保要求，某些非政府组织雇员皆可前往。

当战争爆发、外企纷纷关门逃命之时，中国商人们则将之视为发财良机。* W  p2 s( c' X+ K

TG派驻黎波里王记者讲：中国商人应对挑战各有神通，如果在当地是独此一家、别无分号，那就发大了。
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他对戴家菜的评价是：美味，比一些国内的馆子还好。

戴家2004年从浙江省搬来黎波里，原先打算开一家服装店。人在德国社区7 X/ I2 s- r5 W6 c
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戴母很快发现利比亚妇女比江南女子肥硕得多，戴母觉得喂养她们要比给她们做衣服有钱途。
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戴家最先开的小饭店一炮而红，由于MSL不吃猪肉，戴家选用羊、鸡、鱼、豆腐等原料。
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他们每年两次从国内采购大宗食材。

卡大佐的儿子也曾光顾，戴母对此十分自豪。人在德国社区+ ?3 ^1 i8 h7 ?, e
声名渐长，原先的店面日显得局促。3 ~$ _& b1 o: z2 @
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戴母用普通话讲，顾客连坐的地方都没有。人在德国社区& y- [5 S2 p" |0 h8 m* ^

一月份，戴家店搬入一个两层楼的海景大屋。一楼华丽的天花板饰有古兰文字并挂有红灯笼。戴家则住在二楼。人在德国社区* g* y. J* v9 \8 t, ]$ N6 G
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二月份，当利比亚P民谋反时，戴母想乱局最多持续几个礼拜。人在德国社区* n5 N& a$ K/ Y% k" o. `/ p

＂埃及一两个月就完事，哪曾想利比亚要打这么久。＂rs238848.rs.hosteurope.de- W3 ~5 q" T4 s( n/ d2 o

戴母家叹目前生意一落千丈。城里其它三家中餐馆都已经关门，店主各回各家各喊各妈。* G7 K/ J2 ~& r( F. r8 ]

戴母讲：＂我们是有点怕，炸弹随时会从天而降，轰轰轰。＂

但戴母讲她不能容忍戴家的投资付诸东流，＂俺咬咬牙也要坚持下去。＂

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